sofie leenen

braided weave

Basket weaving is an ancient and intensive craft. Usually a basket is made from a strong and stiff material so it functions as a container. By using yarns and a tractional twined technique the shape, texture and function changed. However, my question is: will it become a woven piece or a braided fabric ?

To balance this research I explore the possibilities by handmade structures but also by effects of the machine, to involve an industrial process. Both are substantiated within the same way of how the braided weave is constructed.

hand made
This fabric has a flat surface with a circle as contour. In order to get a flat surface a mold is used. The mold is a ring with a inner diameter of 80 centimeters. There are 512 holes which are evenly spread around the inner circle. Each thread crosses the middle of the circle. Therefore the middle is the starting position of the weaving proces. Hereby the woven surface is growing from the heart and splits to keep the distribution in balance and to create a parallel circle. The distribution in the center is thick and more rough in structure, towards the outer edge its becomes increasingly refined.

machine made
This hand made process considered much time to create, therefore I started a research on how to mimic the effects and identity of the braided weave into the machines. I work on this research in the TextielLab in the TextielMuseum in Tilburg.
The fabric that is woven on a machine grows in length because of the impact of the weft that moves from left to right, this means that the structure of the textile is formed straight. To encourage this vertical growth I used the same twined technique and distribution that creates horizontal lines. Now that I am managing to control this effect, the next challenge is to get more shape in woven textiles. To be continued